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INSIDER’S PICK: 2005 SPINIFEX PAPILLON BAROSSA VALLEY
I wanted to do this wine for the Insider's Pick as much for my own sake as for yours. Several months ago I tasted this wine along with others from this winery, and this was one of the choices I was most excited about. The more expensive bottlings were certainly more intense and 'impressive', but I really enjoyed the use of Cinsault with the Grenache in the blend, a grape rarely used outside the Rhone and Southern France. I proclaimed it a winner, and expected it to see big scores when it got reviewed. Recently, Robert Parker's "Wine Advocate" did their Australian wine review issue, and while this received very complimentary words and a very good score (89points) it didn't break that magic '90points' barrier that so often seems to be the line in the sand where good and not-so-good are divided. Today we also sampled a wine we received recently that scored 92points in the same Wine Advocate article. As I thought about it I felt the need to compare these two wines to see where those extra 3 points came from. Perhaps of the most glaring difference between them is their alcohol, the Papillon at a modest 14%abv, and the 92 point wine at 15.5%. The 1.5% is very noticeable, giving the 92 point wine a distinctly hot character, especially in the mouth (should I read anything into the fact that a fly landed in my glass shortly after pouring the 92 point wine, perhaps sensing the ambient heat and diving in to escape the 60 degree temps in our store?). The lower alcohol gives the Papillon something many people claim is lacking in Australian wines, a sense of balance. The fragrance is quite lovely, full of blueberries, red fruits, some herbs and even a hint of pencil lead, all of which is made more interesting by the absence of alcoholic heat. When you sip, the flavors come at you in a steady, silky fashion, instead of in one heavy rush, like a cowboy riding at full gallop. While the wine is fairly full bodied, it isn't thick, and surprisingly silky tannins give it a surprisingly dry and complex finish. Do I think that Parker made a mistake in giving the other wine too high a score? Of course not; it is still an intense and expressive wine, and it more than meets his standards for a 92 point wine. But I do think he may have missed some of the charm of the Papillon, and if he doesn't want to give it the magic 90 point score, then we are more than happy to.

We're offering free tastings as usual, this Thursday, November 9th, 2005, and a 10% discount off the retail price of $24.99 for the Grenache blend through the duration of the day. Stop by between noon and 7:30pm for a free taste, and take home some delicious wine.

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